FIVE TIPS FOR AERATING A LAWN

One of the best ways to keep a lawn healthy is by aerating it. Unfortunately, because aeration is not always understood, the benefits of this practice can be missed. Just like organisms benefit from the movement of nutrients and removal of waste, so does the ecosystem of a grass lawn. Over time soil compaction often occurs, frequently as the result of traffic. And, when this happens, there isn’t enough room in soil for water and air to circulate. Core aeration, the most effective type of aeration, reverses the effects of this compressing of soil by removing small cylinders of earth. Here are five tips for aerating a lawn.
1. Pick the right time of year for your aeration to have maximum effect.
Aerating at the right point in time depends on the type of grass you have on your lawn. If you live in a climate where cool season grasses (like bluegrasses, fescues, ryes) are planted, then you’ll want to aerate in late summer or in the fall, when these grasses have weathered the worst summer heat and are growing with a steady supply of moisture. If you are using warm season grasses (like zoysia grasses or bermuda grasses), then aeration is best during the late spring or early summer. Again, this is the time these grasses are growing most steadily.
2. Frequency of aeration depends upon lawn traffic and on need.
Aeration is typically not a normally scheduled event for a private lawn. The real question is how often will people, animals, or vehicles be crossing the grass, thus causing compaction. This may mean that certain, more used parts of a lawn may need to be aerated more often.
3. Before aerating, appropriately irrigate the lawn.
If the soil is wet, you won’t want to aerate it, as it can get quite muddy. However, you also want to make sure the soil isn’t too dry either. It is typically suggested that you water a dry lawn between two days before and the evening before you aerate to ensure that the soil isn’t rock hard.
4. Aeration doesn’t have to be costly.
Especially, if you have a smaller lawn, you can aerate it yourself. While not as effective as a core aerator, some people just use a spading fork to plunge holes into the soil. Buying or renting a coring aerator is another way to go. If you do buy one, it can be a good idea to go in on it with a friend, as neither of you will use be using it nearly as often as a mower or other lawn equipment.
5. Make the most of aerating by pairing it with other means of lawn care.
Right after aerating is an ideal time to apply fertilizer to a lawn, allowing it to really reach the grass roots. It is also good to re-seed a lawn after aeration. The challenge here is to first try to get rid of the cored pieces of soil sitting on the lawn as seeds may grow in these, leading to uneven growth. Either raking these cores up or else waiting for rain to wash them away will prevent this.
In addition to aerating a lawn, remember that cutting the grass well also contribute to the health of the lawn.

What’s in Your Gardening Shed?

 Lawn Care Equipment

Your grass is healthy, green and thick as high pile carpet. But now the time has come to mow the lawn, edge the gardens and walkways, and trim the hedge. You know the lawn work needs to be done, but what lawn care equipment is available for you to use if you wish to implement green lawn mowing and maintenance? Before you spend hours at your local garden center, here are brief descriptions of standard lawn garden equipment.

Reel Mowers
A type of mower that uses blades on a revolving cylinder; it is powered by either engine or muscle These green lawn mowers make the healthiest, most even cut and is ideal for lawn mowing. Blades can be difficult to sharpen and should be brought to a professional

Rotary Mower
This achieves green lawn mowing by using flat horizontal blades controlled by an engine mounted on the mower deck Sharpening of the blades is a fairly simple and can be done by using a mill file and a rotary bench grinder. If not kept sharp, the blade will rip the grass instead of cutting it.

Walk Behind
Green lawn mowing at its best! The mower is powered by gas, electric, or by pushing the mower. They are environmentally friendly, require little maintenance and you get an extra workout every time you use it You need to be strong enough to push them.

Ride on Mower
Available in a array of sizes, styles and have a variety of add-ons for your convenience and ease of use; great for large yards Can be fitted for environmentally friendly engines or electric motors. They are expensive and heavier than other mowers which causes soil compaction


Additional lawn care equipment includes:

Ear & eye protection – Keep your eyes safe from dust or debris by weary safety goggles. For your ears, the National Institute if Deafness and Other Communication Disorders recommends that you protect your ears form sounds that are over 85 decibels—as the majority of trimmers and mowers exceed this number be sure you protect your ears.

No-spill gas cans – Help keep you, your family, and the environment safe and clean.

Watering utensils – hoses, rain gauges, sprinklers, etc.

Wheelbarrows – one of the simplest yet most useful pieces of lawn garden equipment

Rakes – A leaf rake, a metal rake, a bamboo rake and (optional) a landscaping rake

String trimmers
RedMax /EFCO trimmers include solid-steel drive shafts that are splined on both ends. This reduces vibration and improves acceleration, creating a much higher load-carrying capacity. The result is an efficient, low-friction, smooth-running machine that is comfortable to use. Solid-steel drive shaft systems deliver trouble-free operation with no maintenance and downtime when compared to flex-cable or flex-shaft units.

Now, it’s up to you—how will you decide what type of mower will work best? Use these quick guidelines for green lawn mower selection:
Powered or manual? If your yard is less than 2000 sq. ft., go manual.
Decide whether you want a mower with or without a bag for debris.
Determine whether a rotary blade or a reel mower will best suit your situation.
Lawn care equipment doesn’t have to be scary. Know what you want, take your time, then go out and hit the green!
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Spring Lawn Care Tips

The calendar says it's spring, but the weather doesn't in many parts of the United States. It's still time to think about spring lawn care, though, even if it isn't time to actually do much spring lawn care. Here's what you should be 
thinking about in order to get your lawn off to a good start this spring.

Get out the Mower
Take your mower out of winter storage and prep it for spring use. Make sure that the blades are sharp, that there's fresh gasoline and fresh oil in the tanks and a clean or new air filter. You'll probably have to re-connect the spark plugs. (You might consider new spark plugs at this point.) If the mower needs any servicing, get it in to be looked at now before the shops get busy. (It could be too late for that in some areas!)

Clear the Lawn
If the grass has started growing again and you need to mow start by doing a walk around of the lawn and picking up any sticks, rocks, or other debris that might have fallen on the lawn during the winter. You don't want to dull your sharp new mower blade right off the bat! Also, running over rocks or twigs with the lawnmower can be dangerous.

Scout for Weeds
Were winter weeds a problem this year? Now is the time to remove them (before they go to seed) to prevent the same weeds from coming back next year. Use post-emergent herbicide or hand-dig any weeds that have taken over the lawn.

Overseed Thin Areas
Late March and early April are good times to overseed cool-season lawns to thicken thinning turf areas. Now is also a time to identify and repair damage from the winter.

Wait for the Lawn to Drain
Before bringing any heavy equipment onto the lawn, wait for it to drain. Mowing, walking on, or driving on a wet lawn can compact the soil, which will impair grass growth in the future.

Remember we here at Imperial Services have a Great RENTAL Department  for you!   

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Smart Spring Yard Cleanup

It's Cleanup Season
March is notoriously unpredictable. Shrubs can be crusty with snow on the first of the month, and then, a couple of weeks later, temperatures can warm up enough for flower and leaf buds to show signs of life.
Still, some early spring cleanup tasks are sure things this time of year. So go ahead and remove burlap from trees and shrubs as the weather warms. Prune away winter-killed branches to make room for new growth. Cut back spent perennials and pull up old annuals if you didn't get around to it last fall. Then look around. March is a good time to take stock of your yard and see if it's time to thin out crowded beds and do some transplanting to fill in bare spots.

1. Prune away dead and damaged branches. 

Where tree or shrub branches have been damaged by cold, snow, and wind, prune back to live stems; use a handsaw for any larger than ½ inch in diameter. Shaping hedges with hand pruners, rather than electric shears, prevents a thick outer layer of growth that prohibits sunlight and air from reaching the shrub's center. At right, Roger neatens up a yew by pruning wayward shoots back to an intersecting branch. Prune summer-flowering shrubs, such as Rose of Sharon, before buds swell, but wait to prune spring bloomers, like forsythia, until after they flower.
Trim overgrown evergreens back to a branch whose direction you want to encourage.

2. Cut back and divide perennials as needed.

Prune flowering perennials to a height of 4–5 inches and ornamental grasses to 2–3 inches to allow new growth to shoot up. Where soil has thawed, dig up perennials, such as daylilies and hostas, to thin crowded beds; divide them, leaving at least three stems per clump, and transplant them to fill in sparse areas. Cut back winter-damaged rose canes to 1 inch below the blackened area. On climbers, keep younger green canes and remove older woody ones; neaten them up by bending the canes horizontally and tipping the buds downward. Use jute twine or gentle Velcro fasteners to hold the canes in place.
A pair of sharp bypass pruners makes a clean cut on both dead and living foliage.

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3. Clean Up Around Plants.

Rake out fallen leaves and dead foliage (which can smother plants and foster disease), pull up spent annuals, and toss in a wheelbarrow with other organic yard waste. Once the threat of frost has passed, Roger also removes existing mulch to set the stage for a new layer once spring planting is done. Push heaved plants back into flower beds and borders, tamping them down around the base with your foot, or use a shovel to replant them. Now is a good time to spread a pelletized fertilizer tailored to existing plantings on the soil's surface so that spring rains can carry it to the roots. Add a 5-10-10 fertilizer around bulbs as soon as they flower to maximize bloom time and feed next season's growth. Use pins to fasten drip irrigation lines that have come loose and a square-head shovel to give beds a clean edge and keep turf grass from growing into them.

4. Prep Damaged Lawn Areas for Spring Seeding.

In colder climates grass starts growing in April, but early spring is a good time to test the soil's pH so that you can assemble the right amendments. Remove turf damaged by salt, plows, or disease to prepare for the seeding that should follow in a few weeks. Work in a ½-inch layer of compost to keep the new seed moist, increasing the germination rate. Begin seeding once forsythia starts blooming in your area. In warmer climates, March is a good time to add the first dose of fertilizer and crabgrass treatment.

Remove dead turf with a square metal rake, then flip it over to spread compost.
Don’t forget to prepare the lawn with an aerator.  We have them for rent here at Imperial Services Inc.

3 STEPS TO STARTING A SUCCESSFUL LAWN MOWING BUSINESS

Mowing grass for your neighbors is one thing, but actually starting your own lawn mowing business can seem like a daunting task. The reality is this: starting your own business is not difficult if you have the drive and do the research. Today we’re going to discuss the first vital steps to getting a business off the ground.

1. Drive and Research

Trying to start a business without drive and discipline is like trying to drive on an interstate highway with flat tires. You’ll end up going nowhere. The greatest factor that dooms businesses is not financial crisis or lack of capital; it’s equivocation and laziness.  Personal discipline is the most important initial step towards launching a new business.

Do the research. Think through every detail involving starting a business. Where will you get capital? What equipment do you need? Will you need to rent a space to store equipment and start the business? How can my business be found on the internet? Will I have employees? How will you generate leads for clients? Have the discipline to ask the hard questions and use all of the resources available to you to get the answers. The internet offers many helpful sources, ranging from ratings of lawn equipment to applying for a business loan. It helps to make a daily or weekly research schedule to keep your efforts on track.

2.  Capital

Gaining capital through pitching ideas to investors is becoming a thing of the past. New companies are often forced to find capital through other means. What if you don’t have your own money to start a business? What should you do?

The first step is to identify which type of capital you need to start, which for almost every new business is either Seed Capital or Start-up Capital. Seed Capital is funding for planning and research, whereas Start-up Capital funds equipment, supplies, and rent. Start-up Capital is particularly important for the first two years of a small business and it’s potential growth. When a business survives and begins to grow it will shift to Mezzanine Capital, which is also known as Expansion Capital.

Capital can come from investors, but most often it comes through the form of a business loan. When applying for a loan, think specifically about what the loan will be used for and the duration of the loan itself. Take time to think about how to sync up the funds of the loan with things you plan to use the loan money for.

3.  Equipment

A cost-effective business is a sustainable business. A smart investment when starting a lawn mowing business is buying quality equipment. Sounds simple, right? Think about cost this way: A lot of capital is tied up in fuel, rent, and hired hands. Equipment failure or malfunction is an unexpected added cost. Therefore, when purchasing equipment, the paramount element should be return on investment. Based on operating costs, equipment repair costs lead to a poor return on investment and can quickly place your business financially in the red. Study equipment manufacturing and equipment reviews before making any purchases, as the right equipment purchase will lead to a much greater investment return over time. We can help with any questions you have here at Imperial Services. There are also options of Free Financing with some of the larger equipment you might want to purchase.

Give yourself due diligence when considering starting a new company. Do the research and do your best to answer all the hard questions. Remember, if you have the passion and the drive, you can start your own business and make it successful.

For more information about our line of commercial mowers, contact your local Wright dealership today. IMPERIAL SERVICES INC.

Seven Secrets For A Beautiful, Low-Maintenance Landscape

Seven Secrets For A Beautiful, Low-Maintenance Landscape

(NAPSI)—Anyone who thinks a low-maintenance landscape has to be plain green and ugly should think again. With a bit of planning, some smart plant choices and the help of these seven garden designer secrets, you can have a yard that’s the envy of your neighborhood—and enough time to enjoy it.

1. Choose plants that will flourish given the realities of your yard. Some plants like full sun while others tolerate shade; some don’t mind freezing temperatures while others are unfazed by relentless heat. Selecting plants that thrive in the existing conditions of your site ensures a healthy, attractive landscape. Observe the light levels around your home—six to eight hours plus of uninterrupted sun each day indicates full sun, four to six hours is considered part shade or part sun, and less than four hours would be a shaded site. Plants at the garden center should have tags that tell you their light preferences. Shopping locally helps ensure that all the plants you see will be suitable for the climate in your yard.

2. Plant drought-tolerant shrubs. These specially adapted plants thrive with limited water once they are established (usually after their first season in the ground). Drought-tolerant plants sail through hot summer days easily, saving you the time and money it takes to water the landscape. Read the tag attached to the shrub for information on its drought tolerance or look for visual cues such as silvery-grey leaves, as are found on Petit Bleu caryopteris, and narrow, needlelike foliage, as on Fine Line rhamnus. 

3. Spare yourself the time it takes to prune your plants by opting for compact varieties. Compact (also known as dwarf) plants never get too large for the space where you’ve planted them so you don’t have to bother with confusing pruning instructions. Most people’s favorite plants are available in compact, no-prune varieties: hydrangea lovers can try Little Lime or Bobo dwarf-panicle hydrangeas or the tidy Cityline series of big-leaf hydrangea. Rose fans should take note of the low-growing Oso Easy series with its range of 10 vivid colors, all under 3’ high. Even butterfly bush, a shrub notorious for its giant, sprawling habit, is available in a compact 2’ height with the innovative Lo & Behold series. 

4. Choose plants with high-quality, attractive foliage. These look great even when not in bloom, beautifying your landscape for months instead of just a few weeks. Colorful foliage, including the dark purple of Black Lace elderberry or the cheery gold of Chardonnay Pearls deutzia, and variegated foliage, such as My Monet weigela or Sugar Tip hibiscus, make engaging focal points from early spring through late fall. Mix them with such evergreens as Castle Spire holly and Soft Serve false cypress for year-round color.

5. Plant in masses of three, five or seven of the same kind of plant. This gives your landscape a cohesive, professionally designed appearance. Plus, weeds cannot grow if desirable plants are already taking up the space, eliminating that notoriously tiresome garden chore. Planting in groups of odd numbers is a designer’s secret for a bold statement that doesn’t feel too formal or fussy.

6. Mulch. A two- to three-inch-thick layer of shredded bark mulch not only gives your landscape a pleasing, finished look, it conserves water by reducing evaporation. It also keeps plant roots cool and shaded, allowing for healthy, vigorous growth that resists pests and diseases naturally. 

7. Don’t be afraid to replace the plants that take too much of your time, or those that you don’t really like, with new, easy-to-grow shrubs. There are so many improved varieties available now that there is little reason to settle for anything else. 
Here at Imperial Services we have the equipment to clear away the weeds and aerate the yard to edge the beds and to blow away the debris!

Mowing Tips For A Great-Looking Lawn

Mowing Tips For A Great-Looking Lawn

The grass can be greener on your side of the fence if you heed these eight hints on making the most of mowing.

1. Choose the Correct Cutting Height: 
This depends on the type of grass, the amount of rainfall, prevailing temperature and the lawn’s overall condition.

2. Don’t Cut Your Grass Too Short: 

Mowing too short can result in weak, thin grass that’s easily damaged by drought and pests. Leaving your grass a bit longer reduces heat buildup and preserves needed moisture. A good rule of thumb is the one-third rule—cut no more than a third of the grass height and never more than an inch at a time.

3. Mow With Sharp Blades: 
Sharp blade’s cut grass cleanly and efficiently; dull blades tear at the grass, harming it. We Sharpen Blades here at Imperial Services.

4. Mow When the Grass Is Cool and Dry: 
Late afternoon or early evening often provides ideal mowing conditions. Don’t mow after rain or even heavy dew and never mulch when the grass is wet. Moist grass can clump beneath the mower deck.

5. Water Your Lawn Regularly: 
Try to imitate a slow, soaking rain by applying about an inch of water per week. Consider placing tin cans around your lawn, so you can check to be sure you are giving it the proper amount of water.

6. Use the Right Amount of Fertilizer: 
A slow-release fertilizer provides missing nutrients for slow, even growth. When to fertilize and how much to use depends on the condition of your lawn and soil. 

7. Aerate in the Spring: 
Using an aerator to remove cores of soil from the lawn increases clipping decomposition speed and encourages deeper root growth by opening up the soil and permitting greater movement of water, fertilizer and air.
Here at Imperial Services we have an Aerator that you can rent, by the hour, day or week. Just give us a call  @ 978-67-6016.

8. Select the Right Mower: 
The right mower for your lawn depends on the size of the property, whether there are hills and whether you want it to help with other chores, such as pulling a cart for yard work. Once you have your answer, you can decide among a walk-behind mower, a rider tractor or a zero-turn machine. Get advice from the experts on lawn care at Imperial Services Inc.

Maintain Your Snow Blower

Learn how to correctly service, clean and care for your snow blower to extend its life and improve efficiency. Proper storage of your snow blower in the off-season will also ensure you get the most out of your blower year after year.
• Check the oil level before each use and add as needed.
• Check the fuel level before each use.
• Check shear pins and other bolts frequently for proper tightness.
• Change the spark plug every 100 hours or once a season.
• Check snow-blower shave plates and skid shoes for wear and damage; replace as needed.
• After use, run the auger on a dry surface for a few moments to eliminate moisture on the unit and to prevent freeze-up of the auger / impeller.
• Check tire pressure.

Service the Rubber Auger
These rubber paddles will eventually need replacement because they wear out over time. Their service life will depend on variables, such as use, adjustments, maintenance and operating surface. Rubber paddles should be replaced when they're damaged or worn out. They may also need to be replaced if the unit is improperly discharging snow forward instead of through the chute.

Clear a Clogged Discharge Chute
Hand contact with the rotating impeller inside the discharge chute is the most common cause of injury associated with snow blowers. Never use your hand to clean out the discharge chute.

To clear the chute:
Shut the engine off.
Wait 10 seconds and ensure the impeller blades have stopped rotating.
Always use a clean-out toll, not your hands.

Properly Adjust Skid Shoes
Adjusting the skid shoes on a two-stage snow blower allows you to determine how close to the ground the unit will clear snow.

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If you're clearing an even and solid surface, you can adjust the skid shoes as follows:

TIP: 
The auger housing needs support during this adjustment. Find something that might be equal to or close to 1/8 of an inch thick (a piece of wood, a couple of sections of newspaper, sheet(s) of cardboard). Make sure the width is less than that of your snow blower. To properly support your unit for this adjustment, don't use anything that's fragile or unstable.

Place the supporting device underneath the center of the shave plate below the auger housing. This support should then elevate the sides of the auger housing slightly.
Now loosen the hardware, securing the skid shoes on both sides of the auger housing, slide the shoes until they're even with the ground, and then tighten the shoe hardware.
If you remove the support material, you should find that your shave plate is positioned just slightly above the ground with the shoes properly supporting the entire auger housing.

Special Irregular Surface Adjustment:
 If you're are clearing a surface that has an unusually irregular surface, such as gravel or cobblestone, you should follow the instructions above, but you should use something much thicker than 1/8 of an inch for support during the adjustment. The actual thickness needed depends on the severity of the surface or the size of stones covering the surface. For example, if you have stones that are as large as a 1/2 inch in diameter, use something close to 3/4 of an inch in thickness for this support.

***Before performing maintenance on any unit, always disconnect and ground the spark plug wire.

Top Ways to Avoid Snowblower Hassles

Staying on top of basic snowblower maintenance can be the key to avoiding frustration when a big snowstorm hits.

“Having old gasoline in the tank is the most common reason snowblowers won’t start.
 One of the most important things you can do to promote good starting is to have fresh fuel. Stale gas can leave harmful deposits in your product’s fuel system, he reveals. If the gas in your snowblower is more than thirty days old and your machine won’t start, we suggest  taking it to Imperial Services so we can remove the gas. Then put fresh gas in your tank. Adding a fuel stabilizer can help keep the gas fresh through the entire snow season.

The same is true for oil. Changing the oil at the end of the season is a good rule of thumb. That way, you’re ready to go when the season starts. If you haven’t changed the oil yet, we suggests doing so now. Consider using oil specifically made for outdoor equipment. This oil contains higher anti-wear additives not found in automotive oils and helps your engine start, even in bitter cold temperatures.

Another common issue during the snowblowing season is foreign objects getting stuck in the machine. Believe it or not, the most common object to get stuck in snowblowers is the newspaper. Before you set out to clear your driveway or sidewalk, be sure it’s free of debris and objects.

We suggest doing a simple inspection of your snowblower, which can also help keep it tip top shape. Before you do any work on your machine,be sure the engine is off and the spark plug wire is disconnected. If you have a single-stage snowblower, inspect the rotor blades for wear. When a rotor blade edge has worn down to the wear indicator hole, both rotor blades and the scraper should be replaced. If you have a 2-stage machine, check the skids (the part attached to the side of the auger housing). This part lifts the auger and scraper off the ground, preventing the auger from coming in direct contact with the pavement. Be sure the skids don’t show signs of significant wear. If they are damaged or very thin, they need to be replaced.

Sometimes starting problems can be simple operator error. Check your owner’s manual for the proper starting procedure for your machine.
And if you need a new snow blower we have Columbia Brand in stock here at Imperial Services.

Prep Your Yard for Next Growing Season

This is prime time to prep your yard for the next growing season, Cooling temperatures slow above ground growth, and moister soil encourages strong root development. Removing spent stems, dead branches, and heavy leaf cover protects plants' overall health. Read on for the fall checklist.

Aerate the Lawn
A walk-behind aerator that pulls out 2½-to 3-inch-deep soil plugs, which will break down naturally by spring.
We have them for sale or Rent, here at Imperial Services
Feed Your Grass
Cutting back on fertilizer in late summer prevents perennials from wasting energy on leaf production. But grass roots keep growing until the ground gets down to around 40 degrees, so this is a good time to feed them. Apply a high-phosphorus (12-25-12) mix to lawns in fall to encourage roots, so turf greens up earlier in spring.
Mow a Final Time
Trim turf down to 1¼ inches for the last cut of the season. Disease has a harder time with shorter grass, and fallen leaves blow across the lawn because they have nothing to latch on to. Don't go too low, though: Grass makes most of its food in the upper blade.

Trim Dead Limbs
Lifeless branches can succumb to winter snow and winds, endangering you and your home.
 But you can protect small ornamental trees from further damage by cutting cracked, loose, and diseased limbs close to (but not flush with) the trunk; leave the wounds exposed to heal.

Cut Back Perennials
A little work now results in healthier spring beds: Evict tired annuals, as well as the snails and slugs that feed on them, which breed in fall. Trim spent perennial foliage down to the ground; this sends energy to the roots, for next season. Every three years, divide crowded tuberous plants, like irises and daylilies: More space means more flowers.

Storing Your Mower

The mowing season is coming to an end, and winter is just around the corner! Once you’re done mowing for the year, replace any worn parts and properly store your machine to help ensure it is ready for next spring.

If you’re planning to do your own maintenance, here are tips that will help you prepare for winter. See your operator’s manual for further details on performing any of the maintenance mentioned.

If you prefer to have a dealer do any necessary maintenance or repairs on your mower, now would be a good time to contact us here at Imperial Services (978-670-6016). Once spring comes, we will be extremely busy, and we could have long delays.

Fuel system preparation
Add fuel stabilizer/conditioner to the fuel tank. Run engine for five minutes to
distribute conditioned fuel through fuel system. Stop engine, allow it to cool, and
drain fuel tank or run engine until it stops. Either choke or prime the engine, restart it
a third time and allow it to run until it stops. Continue to attempt to restart the engine
until it no longer will start.  While the engine is still warm, change the engine oil (and filter, as applicable), if this service is due.
Cylinder/Piston care
4-cycle engines
Remove spark plug and add about one tablespoon of oil through spark plug hole.
Slowly rotate engine several times using starter rope or key starter to distribute
oil. Reinstall spark plug, but do not connect spark plug wire.
2-cycle engines
Slowly pull recoil starter until resistance is felt due to compression pressure, then
stop. Release starter tension slowly to prevent engine from reversing due to
compression pressure. This position closes both the intake and exhaust ports to
prevent outside air entry, which can result in corrosion of the cylinder bore.
Tighten fasteners as needed.
Service air filter as described in operator’s manual.
       
Clean unit thoroughly.
                                                         
Touch up all rusted or chipped paint surfaces.
Battery (if applicable) –
Remove battery from unit and fully
charge prior to storage.
Replace damaged or worn parts.
Sharpen and balance the mower blade(s).

Lubricate unit per the operator’s manual.
Storage
Ensure engine has cooled. Cover unit and store in a clean, dry location out of the reach of children.  Note: Never store unit in house (living area) or basement where ignition sources may be present, such as a hot water heater, space heater, or clothes dryer. Gasoline and fumes are highly flammable and explosive. Fumes also can be dangerous if inhaled.

Brought to you by Imperial Services Inc.

THE BEST TYPE OF AERATOR

The Best Type of Lawn Aerator

There is a bit of mystery surrounding the lawn aerator. What does it do? Which type is best? When do you use it? A lawn plug aerator is actually one of the most important tools to keeping your grass healthy. This is a specific type of aerator. Not just any will do.

 Here are the reasons why:

Lawn plug aerators actually remove plugs of soil from the lawn, which opens up spaces for air and water to penetrate.

These lawn plug aerators are vastly superior to a punch aerator or aerating shoes because they actually remove the soil, rather than pushing it down further.

The purpose of aerating is to alleviate compaction, so removal of soil is more likely to do that than pushing soil further down.

Some lawns need more organic matter added to the soil and removing plugs of soil creates space for the top-dressing organic matter to incorporate into the soil.

Most often, lawn plug aerators work with hydraulic systems, giving them the power to reach a much deeper soil layer than an aerator/roller combination.

When To Use a Lawn Aerator

If you can find an aerator to rent, all the better. Most of the time, though, if you want the benefit of a lawn plug aerator, you will have to hire a professional lawn care service to aerate your lawn for you. They are more likely to have the equipment, or have access to it. The best time to aerate your lawn is in the spring or fall. Doing so in the fall will help the lawn if you overseed it. It will also relieve compaction from heavy use during the summer season. During the fall, roots of grass grow quickly, so the extra space, air and water will aid good root growth before the grass goes dormant or slows growth for the winter. The spring is a good time to aerate to incorporate organic matter into the soil, and to aid with lawn renovation.

Lawn Care Before and After Aerating

Before you deploy the lawn aerator, mow your grass slightly lower than normal and water it well for two to three days before aerating. Next, use the lawn plug aerator to aerate the lawn. You will want to break up the clods, and help the lawn recover from the stress of aerating, so you need to water the lawn again immediately after you are finished aerating. To improve your soil structure, a couple of days after aerating, top-dress with a compost/topsoil blend and rake it into the holes. Earthworms and soil insects will work in the new addition, improving the soil quickly. Using a lawn aerator the right way will improve the health of your lawn, thus reducing the amount of time you will need to spend caring for it.

Check out our RENTAL DEPARTMENT
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The benefits of RENTING Big Tools

 Doing things yourself is supposed to save money. So starting a job by spending money on rental equipment might seem like a step in the wrong direction. But before you bypass your local rental center, consider how much time and strain you can save with the right tools. You might find that spending $50 to avoid 10 hours of backbreaking labor is a bargain. The right equipment also lets you tackle jobs that you would otherwise have to pay a pro for. And don’t forget the fun factor. 

A typical electric leaf blower throws out about 70 cu. ft. of air per minute (cfm). A commercial-grade Optimax unit throws out an enormous amount more force. With all that extra power, you can clear leaves faster, of course. But a LW Optimax blower will also do things a smaller blower can’t: It will peel wet leaves off the ground, blast out debris that’s stuck in cracks and move a mountain of leaves in one pass. And with the gas engine, you can do it all more comfortably than with  pulling along an electrical cord. 

Make sure to check out all of our Rental Equipment at: Imperial Services

Get What You Pay For

You can rent most power equipment for 4- hour, 8- hour or by 5- Day Periods.

 Here are some tips to help you make the most of the rental period:

*Remember that the rental period includes your drive time to and from your project. If the machine requires a trailer, also factor in time to unload the machine and reload it when the job is done. That can eat up 30 minutes or more of your rental time.

*Ask about delivery services. Having the rental center deliver and pick up the machine may cost $85 or more. But since the rental period won’t include drive time, loading or unloading, you have more time to actually use the equipment. Delivery service may save you money in the long run.

*Make sure the rental center staffers show you how to start and use the equipment. Then try it yourself before you drive away. That way, you avoid learning and making mistakes during the rental period.

*Be ready to use the machine the minute you get home. You can waste a lot of money letting the rental equipment sit idle.

Keep Your Outdoor Power Equipment Safe from Heat

Imperial Services a distributor of outdoor power equipment, warns everyone that excessive heat doesn’t only affect cars, but it also causes havoc to expensive lawn equipment as well.  In fact, lawn mowers, tractors, and small engines sometimes need more routine maintenance performed than automobiles.  Performing a few simple actions will safeguard your engine and power equipment from irreversible damage.  
Reduce prolong heat exposure to equipment.  Most engines generate enormous amount of heat.  When coupled with the hot sun, the equipment can deteriorate more quickly.  Turning off the engine when possible, rather than idling, will help reduce exposure to excessive heat.
Use ethanol-free gasoline.  Ethanol runs hotter in most small engines. This type of fuel blend tends to break down rubber gaskets and other engine parts faster than regular gasoline. According to the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI), “Improperly filling your lawn equipment with E15 could result in irreversible engine damage, in addition to exposing operators to a variety of safety risks.” 

Check the tires.  Low pressure in a tire will make a engine work harder.  Sometimes the tires to riding lawnmowers may need to be adjusted to the hotter operating conditions associated with summertime temperatures.  Likewise, a loose plastic wheel on a lawnmower or similar device will cause unnecessary strain and wear on the motor.   
Inspect the belts and hoses.  Check the belts and hoses and have them replaced according to the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure the belts and hoses have no cracks or irregularities.
Check the battery.  Examine the battery and cable connections, extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, are not good for a battery’s health …and it’s important that batteries are constantly well maintained.”  Moreover, over-charging a battery can produce excessive heat and reduce life of the battery as well.  Bring it in to have Imperial  Services change the oil and filter.  Oil keeps the engine lubricated and cool during operation.  In other words, it reduces friction around machine parts and transfers heat to the cylinder block, then finally to the outside air.  As oil heats up, it deteriorates and can no longer perform its primary function.  In effect, changing the oil according to the manufacturers’ guidelines is essential.

Check your coolant.  Most new tractors do not have air-cooled engines.  Therefore, the engine must be cooled with a mixture of anti-freeze and water. The purpose of the coolant is to take the heat away from the engine, carry it to the radiator which then dispenses the heat to the environment and get it out of the engine.  Rusty colored coolant typically means rust in the system and a “milky” color indicates oil is getting into the cooling system. In either case, the coolant needs to be changed with a procedure called "flush and fill" and should be done periodically according to manufacturer’s recommendations.

A good rule of thumb to follow: Power equipment has about the same heat tolerance as human.  When you get too hot to work, just remember to bring your equipment inside as well. To gain more information regarding outdoor power equipment, call or stop by Imperial Services.

Make sure to visit our website for a total list of our Inventory and Rental Equipment. Imperialservicesinc.com

Create an Easy Late-Summer Water Garden

Waterlily and Lotus 
Waterlilies (Nymphaea) and lotus (Nelumbo) are jewels of the aquatic world. They are celebrated for their beauty and immortalized in art and religion. Many of them are easy to grow and reward the gardener with fragrant and sumptuous blossoms from June until October

Types of Waterlilies 
There are two main divisions of waterlilies: hardy and tropical. Hardy waterlilies will survive our winters if planted below the freezing line in a water feature, while tropical waterlilies need to be stored over the winter or treated as annuals. 

Planting Tips
Plant waterlilies in large plastic containers or baskets specifically designed for aquatic plants. Line the baskets with burlap, landscape fabric, or newspaper (so that the soil does not fall through the cracks). 
The containers should be large enough to allow the rhizome room to spread. Because the rhizomes creep across the surface of the soil, a wider pot is preferable to a deeper one. 

Pond Alternatives 
Don't have a pond? A whiskey barrel or planter is a great alternative. In fact, this planter (at 13 inches high and 23 inches in diameter) is a striking ornament for your outdoor garden. 
Make sure to research the ultimate size of your waterlily. A waterlily with a 6-foot spread will not thrive in a whiskey barrel or a small tub; but there are plenty of options available on the market. 

Color Your Garden 
If you do have a pond, add more color to your garden with these beautiful new watering accessories. Dramm offers durable, high-performance options in a variety of colors. How about a purple hose to go with your pink waterlilies? 

Guaranteed Blooms 
Each flower on the waterlily lasts 3 to 5 days. They open during the day and close at night (unless they are nocturnal). Once the flower is finished, it will slowly sink into the water. 
To ensure many blooms, cut the dying flowers as they sink below the surface. Follow the stem down as far as it goes; also clean off dead or dying leaves.

Love Your Lotus 
Lotus will be hardy if the tuberous rhizomes do not freeze. Plant the containers so that the soil line is below the freezing mark in your pool. This can be 6 to 18 inches deep, depending on the size of your water feature. Lotus, like waterlilies, prefer 6 or more hours of sunlight. 

Lotus Care Tips 
Lotus die back at the end of the year. Cut them down to a few inches above the rhizome. Be patient with them in the spring as they are late to emerge. They prefer warm weather and will start to grow once the water temperature has risen above 70 degrees. 

Don't forget  TAX FREE Weekend August 11th and 12th. We at Imperial have all the proper tools for you to clear an area for your new water feature!

BROUGHT TO YOU BY :IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

SUBARU Generators

Subaru Generators Now at Imperial Services Inc.


Subaru has over 40 years of experience in industry-leading generator technology and state-of-the-art engines to ensure the ultimate level of performance and reliability.  With a complete line of portable generators from 1100 watts to 13,000 watts, Subaru offer a model tailored to suit any application in gasoline, diesel, single or three phase operation.


Subaru portable generators include features the professionals demand and the discerning customers require.  If your application requires clean power or quiet operation, Subaru offers a series of inverter generators to choose from. All Subaru portable generators are EPA and CARB compliant and are backed by a 3-year limited warranty regardless of application.


From home to the jobsite - and everywhere in between - Subaru SGX generators are the best value in durable and dependable power.  The SGX generators are paired with Subaru's industry-leading technologically advanced engines, ensuring reliable power for the most demanding jobsites.  


Maintenance:
From roadwork and landscaping to new home building and dozens of other projects, construction activities are typically busiest in the summer. And it’s not just the laborers who feel the effects of more jobs and extended hours. Tools and equipment run longer hours and are pushed to their limits during the summer months. Between longer days, busier schedules and hours of overtime, routine maintenance often falls by the wayside.


 While construction certainly doesn’t come to a halt when summer ends, the fall presents an ideal time to give equipment some much-needed TLC. Beyond the likelihood that it hasn’t seen a new air filter or oil change in months, some equipment may require minor adjustments to prepare for the colder temperatures and wet conditions that are coming with the fall and winter seasons.
Considering how much it is counted on to provide power to other jobsite tools, the portable jobsite generator is one piece of equipment that deserves a seasonal tune-up. Bring it to us @ IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

 Continuous, uninterrupted operation from a portable generator is necessary in keeping the workday productive, so it must be reliable and able to handle whatever Mother Nature throws its way. Fortunately, generators don’t require complicated, time-intensive maintenance, and most are designed to operate quite well in various weather conditions. However, they do need regular attention year-round, and a little extra care to prepare for seasonal changes.


Before The Storm


First and foremost, the number one rule of portable generator operation must be observed year-round: Never operate indoors or even a partially enclosed space. When the temperature drops, it may be tempting to move the generator to a warmer area such as a shed, garage or partially finished building – but this is a dangerous mistake, as it can lead to deadly carbon monoxide poisoning. The best way to prevent accidental poisoning is to only operate the unit outside in a completely open area. Remember, a generator is designed to run outdoors and built tough to handle the elements.


 It’s a common component of daily preventative generator maintenance to check the oil before every use and a seasonal tune-up takes this one step further. When colder temperatures are on the horizon, the oil must be changed to the appropriate viscosity. If the temperature drops unexpectedly, before the oil has been changed to the ideal viscosity, no need to panic. Simply turn off and move the machine to a warm space, and then change the oil. To save time and eliminate potential issues from having the incorrect oil, many manufacturers recommend using multi-viscosity oil, which is designed to recognize the outdoor temperature and adjust viscosity accordingly. Regardless of what type of oil is used, regular oil changes will keep the engine going and the power flowing. Bring it to Imperial Services for that all important oil change.


 Checking the fuel level is also a daily, pre-operation practice, and especially important during cold weather operation. Condensation can occur inside the fuel tank and cause engine problems – especially in colder temperatures – so top off the tank and make it a habit to do so before daily operation. Be sure the generator is shut off before refueling and use caution to prevent spills.


 If the air filter hasn’t been cleaned or changed all summer, take the time to bring it to Imperial Services. Ideally, filters should be cleaned about every 100 hours or so and changed on a monthly basis. Finally, conduct a seasonal inspection of the spark plugs. There aren’t special spark plugs designed for colder weather, so just check that they’re clean and free of dirt, carbon build-up or damage. A wire brush or spark plug cleaner may be used to remove any excess dirt or carbon, and be sure to replace any damaged or cracked plugs immediately.


 Even with adequate pre-season preparation, normal generator operation can be interrupted due to sudden weather conditions. Knowing how to react and troubleshoot problems will prevent excessive downtime.


 Cool Running
As stated previously, generators actually run very well in cooler weather. However, the damp conditions that often come with rain and early snowfall can cause problems for the carburetor, crankcase and breather system. If cold or freezing rain, or snow begins to fall, place a protective awning or tarp a few feet above the unit. This will protect it from snow and ice intrusion and potential damage to the engine – while still allowing adequate ventilation and eliminating the risk for carbon monoxide poisoning.


 If the generator’s operation slows or stops completely, or it begins to smoke, it’s likely moisture has built up and created icing around the carburetor. This is a fairly common problem during severe weather operation, especially in cases where the generator is being used as back-up power during a snow or ice storm. If this happens, shut down the generator and move to a warm, dry place until the ice has melted. Be sure to wipe off any excess moisture to prevent electrical shock hazards.


A quick seasonal tune-up can be the difference between worry-free generator operation and a lot of frustration and downtime in the coming months. Taking the time to bring your generator to Imperial Services for maintenance and  to prepare the unit for the upcoming season will pay off and ensure the generator is able to handle continued heavy workloads – and even the most extreme weather conditions.


FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL: 978-670-6016

RED MAX EBZ8500

EBZ8500 RedMax Blower is Performance Packed




 The RedMax EBZ8500 blower is packed with power, due to its rugged engine and superior design.


The EBZ8500 features the Strato-Charged® 2-stroke engine with a 75.6 cc displacement and 4.4 horsepower. It produces a maximum air speed of 206 MPH with tube airflow approaching 908 CFM. The Max Cooled back pad uses air from the fan housing to cool operators and keep them comfortable during hot days. Super wide straps and contoured back pad are oversized for greater comfort. 


RedMax is the original inventor of the world's first stratified-charged 2-stroke engine. These state-of-the-art Strato-Charged® engines are designed with advanced technology that reduces impact on the environment through efficient engine design, increased fuel economy and reduced emissions. 


This proven technology has delivered maximum performance in a light, rugged design with outstanding features that set it apart from the competition. The Strato-Charged 2-stroke engine: 


• Achieves up to 20 percent more fuel efficiency than standard 2-stroke engines 


• Produces low emissions that meet regulations without the need for a heated, heavy catalytic converter 


• Requires no valve adjustments, oil changes or daily oil reservoir level checks 


The unit is equipped with RedMax's Fresh Flow Air Net, which reduces air intake blockage, providing maximum blowing performance. It is covered by a two-year warranty and has right-hand throttle options available. All backpack units are equipped with variable-speed cruise control throttles, extra-wide shoulder straps and wide-sweep elbow rotation for full operator mobility and maneuverability, even in cold weather. 


For additional information please contact; IMPERIAL SERVICES INC. 978-670-6016
IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM


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