Thursday, April 19, 2012

Grow a Lush Shade Garden With Hostas












Durable, Colorful Foliage


Go ahead, run your hands over the leaves—you wouldn't be the first. There is something about hosta foliage that begs to be touched. Large and luxuriant, generally with a velvety matte finish, the leaves look like something born in a primeval forest. While many perennials have tender, delicate look-but-don't-touch flowers, hosta color comes on robust leaves that stand up to the attention. And for gardeners who struggle with a shady area of the yard, these colorful, durable plants seem heaven-sent, transforming a potentially drab space into a lush, soothing oasis.


Native to China, Korea, and Japan, where they grow alongside streams and in woodland areas, hostas really became of interest to American gardeners in the 1980s, when breeders found success in changing the variegation, something that previously occurred only through natural plant mutations. The variegation appears as a band, or margin, of contrasting color around the leaf's edge. It usually combines any of the two core colors—green, blue, or gold, which includes the chartreuse and yellow-tinged varieties—or a core color with white, though some newer varieties have three colors.








Sun Tolerance and Color


Hosta foliage is long-lasting, peeking up through the soil in late spring and remaining until fall, though hot climates will sap color before late September. In early or midsummer, tall spikes extend from the center of the plant and fill with white or lavender trumpet-shaped flowers that last through August. Some gardeners choose to prune them off, redirecting energy and focus back to the showier foliage.


Pay a little attention to where you plant hostas and you'll be rewarded with bright color and good growth. Most do best with 3 to 6 hours of morning sun. The brighter chartreuse and gold cultivars tolerate more sun. Mostly white hostas usually don't fare well in shade because they lack the chlorophyll required to make food. Afternoon sun, especially in the South, will stress plants and fade leaves. Blue hostas are particularly susceptible to too much sun, which softens the naturally occurring protective wax that keeps them blue, reverting them back to their true green color.












Susceptible to Garden Pest Damage


While hosta leaves are tender, meaning they die back where winters are cold, the plants are not delicate and will survive down to minus 40 degrees F, growing in the coldest parts of Minnesota as well as in central Florida. They prefer moist, well-draining soil with a good amount of organic matter. It's hard to overwater hostas, but expect them to need about an inch of water each week during the hottest months. Generally easy to grow and disease resistant, they can be susceptible to damage from common garden pests, including deer, voles, rabbits, and slugs.


Today's breeders are tackling practical concerns, such as increased slug resistance (by developing varieties with thicker, more textured leaves) and smaller plant size, as well as cosmetic improvements, including better colorfastness, new leaf shapes, and surface sheen. A lot of effort is being put into developing miniature hostas because of the versatility that these smaller plants, most of which are less than 7 inches high, can provide. Planted under larger perennials in borders or mixed into a container, minis work where larger hostas overwhelm. Newer ones of note include 'Alakazaam,' with ruffled, tapered leaves with green centers, yellow margins, and tiny lavender flowers; and the larger 'Gemstone,' up to 10 inches high, with wavy, rippled blue leaves and lavender flowers on 22-inch-high stems.










Anchor Plants


Jumbo hostas easily anchor a planting bed, though they do require fertilizer to reach maximum size. At 6 feet wide by 4 feet tall, the dinner-plate-size foliage of 'Empress Wu' is striking for the ribbing on its dark green leaves, which can grow up to 16 inches across, and its pale purple flowers in early summer.










Newer Texture and Color Variations


While we're years away from seeing a new core hosta color, some newer varieties with red stalks offer a surprise under the foliage. 'Rocket's Red Glare' has dark red stems topped with wavy, glossy green leaves that sit under striped lavender flowers. New varieties with unique variegations distinguish themselves from the standard, two-color pattern. The aptly named 'Rare Breed' offers three colors: a white center surrounded by a green margin with a paler green color in between. 'Autumn Frost' has heart-shaped foliage that starts blue, with bright yellow margins that mellow to creamy white in summer. Large and showy 'Broad Band,' with heart-shaped foliage featuring yellow-to-white margins around a dark green center, is an example of the trend toward chunkier margins.


Glossy leaves offer a nice contrast in texture when paired with the more common matte varieties. The 3-foot-wide 'Irish Luck' has deeply veined dark green leaves with a lacquer-like finish below sweet-smelling lavender flowers.










Distinguished Varieties


In the past, it's been a struggle to find a blue hosta that kept its color through the summer, but the rounded, silvery-blue leaves on 'Silver Bay' stay true all season. Another new blue, 'Blue Mouse Ears,' has thick, rubbery blue-gray leaves that keep their color and are also slug resistant.


New foliage shapes, like the dark, heavy, almost dart-like green-and-white leaves on 'Sparkler,' help distinguish some new varieties from older ones with similar variegations. 'Surfer Girl' is a medium-green hosta that sets itself apart with wavy, ruffled edges. 'Tropical Dancer' has fluted, piecrust-shaped foliage with creamy-white margins and green centers.


BROUGHT TO YOU BY: IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

XERISCAPE YOUR YARD INSTEAD OF PLANTING GRASS





How to Xeriscape Your Lawn







Xeriscape is a landscaping technique that uses water-efficient plants. Rather than use water-heavy lawn grass, xeriscaping favors mulches and low water use plants.


Seven Principles of Xeriscaping


Planning and Design- Surveying the landscape can lead to discovering areas that can be re-planted or re-designed to reduce water use. These areas may include a driveway, sidewalk or patio.


Soil analysis- It's important to evaluate the water-holding capacity of soil. Adding organic matter, like mulch or compost, to the soil will increase moisture retention.


Practical turf areas-This doesn't mean eliminating lawns; however, installing smaller patches of lawn and using lower-water use grasses for lawn areas can decrease the amount of water needed.


Appropriate plant selection-To reduce water usage, you may want to select plants that require less water once they're established.


Efficient irrigation- Unlike other methods, drip irrigation provides a slow stream of water to the plant's roots. To conserve water, use drip irrigation wherever possible for flowers. Measuring irrigation output can also ensure that areas are getting an appropriate amount of water.


Use of mulches-Mulch always helps irrigation because it prevents runoff and absorbs water from the ground.


Appropriate maintenance-It's important to maintain the quality of a lawn; however, excess watering and fertilizing can do more harm than good.








Xeriscaping in the Landscape


Although xeriscaping is most commonly used in landscapes and gardens, it can also be used in lawns. Mulch use and plant selection are key aspects of xeriscaping. The type of mulch you decide to use depends on the style and location of the landscape. While wood mulch is used in many temperate, humid areas, rock mulch is used in dry, arid, and desert-like areas.


Xeriscaping is not synonymous with a barren landscape. In fact, plants can thrive in a xeriscape. When choosing plants to use, you'll want to purchase native plants because they require less water. Keep in mind that these plants will differ depending on where you reside. It's also important that you use the "right plant, right place" technique. This means that you will want to plant plants in locations that promote growth. For instance, if a plant does best in direct sunlight, then you will want to plant it in an area that receives abundant sunlight.


In addition to being more sustainable, xeriscaping can also significantly cut down on maintenance. Not only does xeriscaping reduce time spent mowing, but using mulch can also lock in moisture and limit weed growth, reducing time spent watering and digging up weeds.


A Xeriscape-Inspired Lawn


You can convert the lawn to a lower water-use lawn by changing the grass type. For instance, Zoysia, buffaloegrass, and centipede require less water than other popular grass types. You can also reduce the amount of water and chemicals needed for the lawn by practicing good lawn care techniques, including mowing. To increase moisture retention in the soil, you can aerate the lawn once a year, raking compost into the aerated holes.



BROUGHT TO YOU BY: IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

Thursday, April 12, 2012

How a Well-Tended Landscape Adds Value to a Home




A well-tended landscape has a number of benefits. Not only does landscaping boost curb appeal, but it can also be instrumental when selling one's home. According to the ASLA (American Society of Landscape Architects), a well-kept lawn adds up to 20% of value to one's home.



Having an attractive lawn is especially beneficial when you're putting your home on the market. This is because the lawn is the first thing that potential buyers will see. With that being said, trees and vibrant flowers can be more appealing than standard green shrubs.






Why is Landscaping Important?






A survey from 1999 concluded that a lawn's design was the most important aspect in determining the value of a lawn. Plant size and plant type also played a role. The survey also claimed that a home with a barren landscape could increase its worth by thousands of dollars. It's important to note that a lawn's value will increase over time as the trees and plants mature.






Ideas for Adding Value with Landscaping






Planting trees is an easy way to add longstanding value to your home. The best type of trees to plant are high-quality shade trees, including sugar maple, red maple, pine oak, white oak, and live oak. While shade trees vary in height, they all provide ample shade. Blooming trees can also increase property value by adding a splash of color to an otherwise green lawn. Redbud, magnolia, crape myrtle, cherry, and flower crab apple are some of the most popular blooming trees. When planting trees, keep in mind how it will affect views both inside and outside the home. For instance, planting a tall tree in front of your home may make it difficult for passersby to notice the home's architecture.


Foundation plants are ideal for landscaping around the house. These plants include perennials, low shrubs, and flowering shrubs like azaleas, encore azaleas, and winterberry holly. Groundcover beds can be planted under trees. This is because they're shade-tolerant and require less water than other plants.


Incorporating decorative structures, like boulders, arbors, and pergola with vines, can also help your lawn look more distinctive. These materials can also be used for landscaping around one's patio. Privacy hedging can also be a huge draw for potential buyers. Fast-growing trees and shrubs, such as arborvitae, willow hybrid, and yew, are perfect for this type of hedging.


Taking care of existing plants is just as important as planting new ones. Regardless of why you're landscaping, you need to practice good lawn care year-round. This means shearing overgrown tree limbs and shrubs, as well as mowing the lawn and removing weeds. You can also add volume to a bare lawn by overseeding it.


Landscaping one's property can be an enjoyable pastime; however, it can be quite time-consuming. If you're interested in a landscape overhaul, you may want to ask a local lawn care company for some assistance. They can help you choose trees and plants that are most suitable for your environment.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Cook Up a Great Outdoor Kitchen






Been hankering for an open-air cooking area? Here, a guide to the ingredients it takes to make a five-star space. Incorporate as many as you like—and as your budget will allow — then save the rest for summers to come.



Add a Countertop


Ready to upgrade a basic barbecue? Start by creating a place to slice tomatoes and plate burgers. A peninsula of tumbled cast-concrete blocks and a stone counter turns a freestanding grill into a built-in. DIY a setup for about $350 by stacking blocks on a bed of tamped drainage stone, securing each block with masonry glue. Incorporate blocks of varying sizes and recessed "panels" to make the unit look less monolithic, then top it off with bluestone stair treads for the counter.



Money-saving option:
Forgo a built-in and pull up a small table.

Light It Up




There's nothing worse than fumbling in the dark when it's time to see if the chicken's done. Task lighting takes care of that problem and can range from a basic miner's hat to the graceful gooseneck fixture. Keep in mind that running an electrical line will cost a minimum of around $400 to $600, but it offers the option of outlets for conveniences like a side burner or a blender.



Money-saving option:
An adjustable, battery-operated clip-on lamp.



Install a Sink and Appliances

When an outdoor kitchen is more than a few steps from the house, it may pay to install cold-water and waste lines for a sink, as well as a small fridge for cool drinks. Adding a hot-water line, too, and a dishwasher can make cleanup that much easier. Count on plumbing costs to start around $1,500 (even more if you're adding hot water). Outdoor-rated under the counter fridges start around $1,000, rust-resistant stainless-steel dishwashers at $750.



Money-saving option:
Look for a sink that hooks up to a garden hose and drains into the ground, Chill drinks in a tub elevated on an iron stand.




Provide Shelter



Too much sun? A pergola may be the answer. Made with treated lumber or PVC, a slatted structure can cost about $40 to $200 per square foot and can be tied into the house framing or secured to freestanding posts. For more protection from sun and rain, add a plexiglass or metal roof.



Money-saving option:


A market umbrella, such as Home Decorator's 11-foot version, which comes with a stand, can provide overhead shelter



Add a Hearth



The ultimate outdoor-kitchen accessory—a fireplace­—comes at a price. It can cost from $10,000 for a basic block structure with a stucco finish to $25,000 and more for one made with stone.





Money-saving option:


A portable fire pit
Use Tough Surfaces


Use a granite surface dining table no need to seal it. Stone is made to weather,



BROUGHT TO YOU BY IMPERIALSERVICESINC.COM

Friday, April 6, 2012

10 Ways to Add Privacy to Your Yard #1 & 2






When You Want to Be Alone


There was a time you could kick back in glorious solitude right in your own backyard. Then the family next door cleared some trees on their lot. And on the other side, the neighbors’ new master suite includes a second-story deck with nice views—into your yard. Suddenly, you feel like you’re living in a fishbowl.


As larger houses occupy ever-smaller lots and the demand for outdoor living areas grows, privacy is at a premium. And it’s not just about prying eyes invading your space—you may want to shield your own view of your sunbathing neighbors and block out their chatter.


There are myriad ways to add privacy in the landscape, from putting in perimeter plantings to building fences, stone walls, or garden structures. Here, staggered wooden boards are stained in soft shades of black, yellow, green, and red. They create a one-of-a-kind privacy fence softened by shrubs in front and a feathery tree canopy overhead.






Privacy Plantings



Property-line plantings can provide year-round screening and are typically not restricted by municipal ordinances limiting their height. Where space is tight, as in a side yard, fast-growing columnar evergreens like Italian cypress and arborvitae or a sheared privet hedge can provide a simple solution for separating adjoining yards or blocking sight lines out a kitchen window.



To plant a new privet hedge, create a trench two feet wide and two feet deep, space individual shrubs about 12 inches apart, and bring soil up to the branching trunk. Water deeply and frequently the first year, using drip irrigation. To thrive, these deciduous shrubs require a temperate climate and a homeowner willing to wield sharp shears as often as needed.



imperialservicesinc.com

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Grass Seed Germination: Getting the Best Results

Planting a new lawn involves holding your breath, hoping that grass seed germination goes well. There are several actions you can take to ensure that your grass seed germinates properly, giving you the thick, green lawn you hoped for when you started planting. Here are some pointers to help you get the best results.




Step One: Prepare the Soil



The key to successful lawn and garden maintenance is always to properly prepare the soil. Whether you are starting with bare ground, or are renovating an existing lawn, you can improve germination rates if you aerate the soil and top-dress it with compost. That will break up the soil, and introduce organic matter-both of which will make it easier for the roots to grow and establish.



Step Two: Select the Right Seed for the Location



You will often hear gardeners say "right plant, right place." You really will have better results if you select a grass species that will do well in the area you want to plant it. Some grass types are better adapted to sun, and others to shade. Some like dry, sandy soils, while others need a richer base.



Step Three: Plant at the Proper time for your Selected Grass



Some grasses are cool season, while others are warm season. You will have better grass seed germination if you plant at the appropriate time. Warm season grasses will grow most rapidly when planted in late April or early May. The soil is warm, but not overwhelmingly hot. Cool season grasses like rye and bluegrass do best when planted in the fall. Mid-September to Mid-October works well for these. The days are getting shorter, the soil is cooling and the nights are cool.



Step Four: Spread Grass Seed Evenly



Using either a drop spreader or a rotary spreader will help you achieve even coverage. Both types of spreaders will need to be calibrated for your personal use. The speed at which you walk and the setting of the spreader will determine how much seed is put down per a specific period of time, and where it goes. Your spreader should come with instructions for calibration.



Step Five: Maintain Adequate Moisture



Seeds contain within them baby plants. The plant embryos are alive, but they are metabolizing very, very slowly. When you expose the seeds to water, they begin to "wake up," in a sense. You need to maintain adequate and even moisture throughout the germination process in order to get even grass seed germination rates. One way to do this is to water lightly three or four times a day, always stopping before sundown. (You do not want fungal disease to take hold during germination.) You can also top-dress your seeding with compost or straw to help keep the seeds covered and moist. The germination time will vary depending upon the species of grass.



Step Six: Stay off the Grass



You really do need to stay off the grass until it has had a chance to establish. While that might not be directly related to germination success, it is directly related to establishment. If you don't allow the plants the time they need to establish, it doesn't matter how good the germination was! You need to stay off of warm season grasses for up to three months, if you grow them from seed, because they are not as easy to establish from seed. Cool season grasses are usually "good to go" after about a month. Follow these tips when you establish a new lawn, and you will have excellent grass seed germination results!


imperialservicesinc.com

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Best Foundation Plants for Stellar Curb Appeal

Virginia Sweetspire

(Itea virginica)

Its dark green leaves turn yellow-orange, reddish-purple, and crimson in the fall. 'Henry's Garnet' has 6-inch-long spikes of fragrant white flowers and can grow up to 4 feet high and 6 feet wide.



Knockout Rose

(Rosa) 'Radrazz'


A compact shrub covered with red flowers from spring until frost. Can grow up to 4 feet high and wide.



Flowering Perennials: True Geranium



'Rozanne'


At the front of the border, these can provide spring-to-fall color, especially if you cluster varieties with an extended bloom time.

'Rozanne' is one of the longest-blooming varieties, with violet petals around a white center that continue all summer. Can grow to 18 inches high and 2 feet wide.


Catmint

(Nepeta racemosa) 'Walker's Low'




Tall spikes of tiny blue or purple flowers that are best clumped together for a punch of color. 'Walker's Low' has fragrant lavender-blue flowers on 24-inch-tall stems that can grow to 3 feet wide.





Tickseed

(Coreopsis) 'Zagreb'


Daisy-like yellow flowers open in early summer on tall stalks with fine, green foliage. C. verticillata 'Zagreb' has golden flower heads, while 'Grandiflora' is a darker yellow. Both can grow to 18 inches high and wide.


Salvia

(S. nemorosa) 'Ostfriesland'




Blooms with violet, pink, or white flowers and green leaves from summer to fall. 'Ostfriesland' is a smaller purple salvia, reaching 18 inches high and wide.




Shasta Daisy

(Leucanthemum x superbum) 'Becky'




These 4-inch-wide blooms of white petals with yellow centers appear from mid summer to early fall and need no staking, thanks to ridged stems. Can grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide.