Ways to Save Water, Time, and Money on Your Landscape

Efficiency is Key


Let's get right to the point. If you're not irrigating your lawn, flower beds, and container plants using the most targeted, time-efficient methods possible, you're wasting water. Here's what you need to know to conserve valuable water, time, and money on your yard and garden maintenance.

Reduce Your Lawn


Limit the expanse of yard devoted to perpetually thirsty turf grass. Less lawn can result in outdoor living spaces that demand less of your time and energy—not to mention less water, gas, and electricity. 


If you live where every house flaunts an immaculate, weed-free front lawn, giving up grass entirely might read as an act of rebellion. But you can gradually shift toward a front yard that's more garden than lawn by establishing deep planting beds that curve along the front and sides of the house

Water Smart


Cut back on fertilizer, mow high, and leave mulched clippings on the lawn to shade the soil and reduce evaporation. When you set up the sprinklers, make sure water is being absorbed; if you see runoff or puddles, you're adding water too fast. 




The main question people usually have about watering, is: how much? The simple answer is that lawns require about an inch of water a week. The tricky part is to figure out how to translate that inch of water into minutes on your sprinkler. There's no way around it, you have to measure. Set up your sprinkler as usual and put out a rain gauge, which can be as simple as an empty coffee can. Water for 15 or 20 minutes, then check how much water is in the can. If you water for 15 minutes and get 1/4 inch of water, you know you need four times that amount of time to get to an inch. That means you need 60 minutes of watering a week to keep the lawn healthy.

Don't Water Unless You Have To


A simple way to determine when your lawn needs water: Walk on the grass. If the blades spring back, hold off on watering. If you see your footprints, switch on the sprinklers—unless rain is in the forecast. Not a cloud in the sky? Hose down the garden in the early morning or at dusk to avoid losing water to evaporation caused by the hot sun.

Water at the Root


Water just the roots of your perennials, annuals, and shrubs—don't shower the leaves. This cuts the risk of fungal disease and reduces evaporation. A smart way to put water just where you need it is to Install Drip Irrigation

Plant Drought-Tolerant Varieties


Choose drought-tolerant plants adapted to your site's climate, soil type, and sun exposure. Make your life a little easier by planning your landscape around watering needs. Shallow-rooted plants such as hydrangea, azalea, and rhododendron require more watering than other plants. Annuals and container plants also need extra attention come summer. Think about that as you plant, and group the high-water-need plants together. Come July and August, as you're making the rounds with the hose or watering can, you'll be glad you did.

Don't Forget Your Containers


Plants in pots are especially vulnerable to drying out in hot weather because their roots are confined to a small area and can't extend deeper in search of moisture. When starting a container, give plants a thorough drink using a watering can or a soft-spray nozzle on a hose. Water often—whenever the soil is dry 2 to 3 inches below the surface—and fertilize regularly.

Plant a Tree


Plant at least one tree in your yard—for shade, for beauty, and for posterity. It'll save you money by reducing water-hog turf and providing a bit of shade.

Maintain Your Drip Irrigation Gear


Keep your drip irrigation systems running efficiently by checking for leaks, cracked pipes, or plugged emitters. And watch for spray that drifts away as mist, a sign that water pressure is too high. Bigger droplets won't get carried away in the wind.

Try a Soaker Hose


Inexpensive soaker hoses ooze water through thousands of tiny pores all along the length of rubber tubing. Snaked through shrubbery and hooked up to a timer set for early morning watering, they can cut water use by up to 70 percent over conventional sprinklers.




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SOME TOXIC  Garden Plants YOU SHOULD BE AWARE OF:

Garden Plants

Your garden may be a relaxing retreat, but it's not a place to let your guard down, especially when it comes to small children and the family pet. Some popular plants you prize for their ornamental beauty can turn into toxic killers within minutes if ingested, whether consumed out of curiosity or by mistake. With this list you'll know what flowers, shrubs, and berries to warn young, inquisitive minds about and which bushes and flowers to keep out of paw's reach. You'll also learn the symptoms of poisoning because—after prevention—rapid treatment is the only defense against death.

Rhododendron 

Why we grow it: Give them moisture and shade, and rhododendron shrubs offer showy red, white, pink, or purple flower clusters in spring and thick, glossy leaves that thrive into the winter.

Deadly parts: The entire plant. 

Toxic toll: Who knew both West Virginia and Washington's state flower was a silent killer? Swallow any part of this plant, and you're going to look as bad as you feel. While drooling from the mouth and teary-eyed, you'll begin vomiting violently, just as your pulse slows down and low blood pressure sets in. Death can occur shortly after falling into a coma or during a violent seizure.

Lily-of-the-Valley 

Why we grow it: Low to the ground with spires of tiny, white bell-shaped flowers, lily-of-the-valley packs a potent, sweet-smelling scent despite its small size. It's also an excellent groundcover in shady settings.

Deadly parts: The entire plant, particularly the leaves. 

Toxic toll: Sure, they make for an attractive flower arrangement, but even the water you place cut lily-of-the-valley flowers in contains deadly traces of convallatoxin, which intensifies the heart's contractions. Just a bite causes headaches, hot flashes, hallucinations, and irritability, not to mention red blotches on cold, clammy skin. The heart will also slow down, potentially leading to coma and death.

Hydrangea 

Why we grow it: The large, pink, blue, or white flower clusters on these shade-loving shrubs perk up any landscape, blooming at the start of summer and into the fall. 

Deadly parts: The entire plant, especially the flower buds. 

Toxic toll: Swallowing hydrangea is like popping a cyanide pill. The present poison, hydragin, is a cyanogenic glycoside, meaning it will cause shortness of breath, dizziness, fainting, and a rapid pulse, along with a drop in blood pressure that can cause convulsions and death.

Poet's Narcissus 

Why we grow it: Also known as poet's daffodil, these pretty white bulb flowers, with a yellow center cup much smaller than the common daffodil's, stand up to deer, rabbits, and voles better than other blooms, making them a prime choice for adding a bit of cheer to your beds.

Deadly parts:

 The entire plant, especially the bulbs, which are potent emetics, inducing vomiting.

Toxic toll: If the scent of a narcissus bouquet in a closed room is strong enough to cause a headache, just imagine what eating an entire bulb might do. Think severe nausea, convulsions, fainting, paralysis and eventual death. Still want to plant them? Watch any open wounds you may have while tending to them—coming into contact with their bulb secretions has produced staggering, numbness, and heart paralysis.

Foxglove 

Why we grow it: With purple, pink, and white bell-shaped blossoms growing in tall, tower—ing spires, it adds drama and height to your garden.

Deadly parts: The entire plant, especially the leaves of the upper stem, which are rich in digitalin, digitoxin, and digitonin—chemicals, that while used medicinally, are deadly in high doses.

Toxic toll: The same thing that makes these lookers toxic to deer won't sit well with your—or the family pet's—digestive tract. Twenty minutes after a little nibbling, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea set in. Depending on the amount ingested, untreated poisoning leads to death by bradycardia (lowered heart rate) or ventricular fibrillation (a rapid, irregular rhythm in the lower heart chambers). Keep in mind, however, that children have died just from sucking on a part of the plant.

Larkspur 

Why we grow it: Part of the buttercup family of flowers, larkspur adds a high-impact, low-maintenance dose of color to your garden with its clustered blooms and colorful petals, typically ranging from white to blueish purple. 

Deadly parts: The entire plant, though the young leaves and the mature seeds contain the highest concentration of toxic alkaloids 

Toxic toll: These enticing blue growers are definitely just for looking—not eating. Immediately after ingestion, nausea, burning in the mouth, vomiting, and slowing of the heartbeat set in. Seek treatment right away, because six hours is all it takes for this flower to become lethal.

Oleander 

Why we grow it: Its fragrant white buds and thick, dark green leaves make it a popular ornamental shrub for gardens across the country. 

Deadly parts: The entire plant, including its nectar and sap 

Toxic toll: Think twice about growing one of these babies in your yard, especially if you have little ones: a single leaf contains enough toxins to be lethal to an infant or small child. Like other poisonous plans, ingesting it first affects the digestive system with vomiting and diarrhea, then poisoning progresses into life-threatening circulatory problems. If your heart's still ticking after that trauma, oleander can also deal a fatal blow to your central nervous system, causing seizures, tremors, and coma that can lead to death.

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Grow a Lush Shade Garden With Hostas

Durable, Colorful Foliage


Go ahead, run your hands over the leaves—you wouldn't be the first. There is something about hosta foliage that begs to be touched. Large and luxuriant, generally with a velvety matte finish, the leaves look like something born in a primeval forest. While many perennials have tender, delicate look-but-don't-touch flowers, hosta color comes on robust leaves that stand up to the attention. And for gardeners who struggle with a shady area of the yard, these colorful, durable plants seem heaven-sent, transforming a potentially drab space into a lush, soothing oasis.


Native to China, Korea, and Japan, where they grow alongside streams and in woodland areas, hostas really became of interest to American gardeners in the 1980s, when breeders found success in changing the variegation, something that previously occurred only through natural plant mutations. The variegation appears as a band, or margin, of contrasting color around the leaf's edge. It usually combines any of the two core colors—green, blue, or gold, which includes the chartreuse and yellow-tinged varieties—or a core color with white, though some newer varieties have three colors.

Sun Tolerance and Color


Hosta foliage is long-lasting, peeking up through the soil in late spring and remaining until fall, though hot climates will sap color before late September. In early or midsummer, tall spikes extend from the center of the plant and fill with white or lavender trumpet-shaped flowers that last through August. Some gardeners choose to prune them off, redirecting energy and focus back to the showier foliage.


Pay a little attention to where you plant hostas and you'll be rewarded with bright color and good growth. Most do best with 3 to 6 hours of morning sun. The brighter chartreuse and gold cultivars tolerate more sun. Mostly white hostas usually don't fare well in shade because they lack the chlorophyll required to make food. Afternoon sun, especially in the South, will stress plants and fade leaves. Blue hostas are particularly susceptible to too much sun, which softens the naturally occurring protective wax that keeps them blue, reverting them back to their true green color.

Susceptible to Garden Pest Damage


While hosta leaves are tender, meaning they die back where winters are cold, the plants are not delicate and will survive down to minus 40 degrees F, growing in the coldest parts of Minnesota as well as in central Florida. They prefer moist, well-draining soil with a good amount of organic matter. It's hard to overwater hostas, but expect them to need about an inch of water each week during the hottest months. Generally easy to grow and disease resistant, they can be susceptible to damage from common garden pests, including deer, voles, rabbits, and slugs.


Today's breeders are tackling practical concerns, such as increased slug resistance (by developing varieties with thicker, more textured leaves) and smaller plant size, as well as cosmetic improvements, including better colorfastness, new leaf shapes, and surface sheen. A lot of effort is being put into developing miniature hostas because of the versatility that these smaller plants, most of which are less than 7 inches high, can provide. Planted under larger perennials in borders or mixed into a container, minis work where larger hostas overwhelm. Newer ones of note include 'Alakazaam,' with ruffled, tapered leaves with green centers, yellow margins, and tiny lavender flowers; and the larger 'Gemstone,' up to 10 inches high, with wavy, rippled blue leaves and lavender flowers on 22-inch-high stems.

Anchor Plants


Jumbo hostas easily anchor a planting bed, though they do require fertilizer to reach maximum size. At 6 feet wide by 4 feet tall, the dinner-plate-size foliage of 'Empress Wu' is striking for the ribbing on its dark green leaves, which can grow up to 16 inches across, and its pale purple flowers in early summer.

Newer Texture and Color Variations


While we're years away from seeing a new core hosta color, some newer varieties with red stalks offer a surprise under the foliage. 'Rocket's Red Glare' has dark red stems topped with wavy, glossy green leaves that sit under striped lavender flowers. New varieties with unique variegations distinguish themselves from the standard, two-color pattern. The aptly named 'Rare Breed' offers three colors: a white center surrounded by a green margin with a paler green color in between. 'Autumn Frost' has heart-shaped foliage that starts blue, with bright yellow margins that mellow to creamy white in summer. Large and showy 'Broad Band,' with heart-shaped foliage featuring yellow-to-white margins around a dark green center, is an example of the trend toward chunkier margins.


Glossy leaves offer a nice contrast in texture when paired with the more common matte varieties. The 3-foot-wide 'Irish Luck' has deeply veined dark green leaves with a lacquer-like finish below sweet-smelling lavender flowers.

Distinguished Varieties


In the past, it's been a struggle to find a blue hosta that kept its color through the summer, but the rounded, silvery-blue leaves on 'Silver Bay' stay true all season. Another new blue, 'Blue Mouse Ears,' has thick, rubbery blue-gray leaves that keep their color and are also slug resistant.


New foliage shapes, like the dark, heavy, almost dart-like green-and-white leaves on 'Sparkler,' help distinguish some new varieties from older ones with similar variegations. 'Surfer Girl' is a medium-green hosta that sets itself apart with wavy, ruffled edges. 'Tropical Dancer' has fluted, piecrust-shaped foliage with creamy-white margins and green centers.

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XERISCAPE YOUR YARD INSTEAD OF PLANTING GRASS

How to Xeriscape Your Lawn







Xeriscape is a landscaping technique that uses water-efficient plants. Rather than use water-heavy lawn grass, xeriscaping favors mulches and low water use plants.


Seven Principles of Xeriscaping


Planning and Design- Surveying the landscape can lead to discovering areas that can be re-planted or re-designed to reduce water use. These areas may include a driveway, sidewalk or patio.


Soil analysis- It's important to evaluate the water-holding capacity of soil. Adding organic matter, like mulch or compost, to the soil will increase moisture retention.


Practical turf areas-This doesn't mean eliminating lawns; however, installing smaller patches of lawn and using lower-water use grasses for lawn areas can decrease the amount of water needed.


Appropriate plant selection-To reduce water usage, you may want to select plants that require less water once they're established.


Efficient irrigation- Unlike other methods, drip irrigation provides a slow stream of water to the plant's roots. To conserve water, use drip irrigation wherever possible for flowers. Measuring irrigation output can also ensure that areas are getting an appropriate amount of water.


Use of mulches-Mulch always helps irrigation because it prevents runoff and absorbs water from the ground.


Appropriate maintenance-It's important to maintain the quality of a lawn; however, excess watering and fertilizing can do more harm than good.

Xeriscaping in the Landscape


Although xeriscaping is most commonly used in landscapes and gardens, it can also be used in lawns. Mulch use and plant selection are key aspects of xeriscaping. The type of mulch you decide to use depends on the style and location of the landscape. While wood mulch is used in many temperate, humid areas, rock mulch is used in dry, arid, and desert-like areas.


Xeriscaping is not synonymous with a barren landscape. In fact, plants can thrive in a xeriscape. When choosing plants to use, you'll want to purchase native plants because they require less water. Keep in mind that these plants will differ depending on where you reside. It's also important that you use the "right plant, right place" technique. This means that you will want to plant plants in locations that promote growth. For instance, if a plant does best in direct sunlight, then you will want to plant it in an area that receives abundant sunlight.


In addition to being more sustainable, xeriscaping can also significantly cut down on maintenance. Not only does xeriscaping reduce time spent mowing, but using mulch can also lock in moisture and limit weed growth, reducing time spent watering and digging up weeds.


A Xeriscape-Inspired Lawn


You can convert the lawn to a lower water-use lawn by changing the grass type. For instance, Zoysia, buffaloegrass, and centipede require less water than other popular grass types. You can also reduce the amount of water and chemicals needed for the lawn by practicing good lawn care techniques, including mowing. To increase moisture retention in the soil, you can aerate the lawn once a year, raking compost into the aerated holes.

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How a Well-Tended Landscape Adds Value to a Home

A well-tended landscape has a number of benefits. Not only does landscaping boost curb appeal, but it can also be instrumental when selling one's home. According to the ASLA (American Society of Landscape Architects), a well-kept lawn adds up to 20% of value to one's home.



Having an attractive lawn is especially beneficial when you're putting your home on the market. This is because the lawn is the first thing that potential buyers will see. With that being said, trees and vibrant flowers can be more appealing than standard green shrubs.






Why is Landscaping Important?






A survey from 1999 concluded that a lawn's design was the most important aspect in determining the value of a lawn. Plant size and plant type also played a role. The survey also claimed that a home with a barren landscape could increase its worth by thousands of dollars. It's important to note that a lawn's value will increase over time as the trees and plants mature.






Ideas for Adding Value with Landscaping






Planting trees is an easy way to add longstanding value to your home. The best type of trees to plant are high-quality shade trees, including sugar maple, red maple, pine oak, white oak, and live oak. While shade trees vary in height, they all provide ample shade. Blooming trees can also increase property value by adding a splash of color to an otherwise green lawn. Redbud, magnolia, crape myrtle, cherry, and flower crab apple are some of the most popular blooming trees. When planting trees, keep in mind how it will affect views both inside and outside the home. For instance, planting a tall tree in front of your home may make it difficult for passersby to notice the home's architecture.


Foundation plants are ideal for landscaping around the house. These plants include perennials, low shrubs, and flowering shrubs like azaleas, encore azaleas, and winterberry holly. Groundcover beds can be planted under trees. This is because they're shade-tolerant and require less water than other plants.


Incorporating decorative structures, like boulders, arbors, and pergola with vines, can also help your lawn look more distinctive. These materials can also be used for landscaping around one's patio. Privacy hedging can also be a huge draw for potential buyers. Fast-growing trees and shrubs, such as arborvitae, willow hybrid, and yew, are perfect for this type of hedging.


Taking care of existing plants is just as important as planting new ones. Regardless of why you're landscaping, you need to practice good lawn care year-round. This means shearing overgrown tree limbs and shrubs, as well as mowing the lawn and removing weeds. You can also add volume to a bare lawn by overseeding it.


Landscaping one's property can be an enjoyable pastime; however, it can be quite time-consuming. If you're interested in a landscape overhaul, you may want to ask a local lawn care company for some assistance. They can help you choose trees and plants that are most suitable for your environment.

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Cook Up a Great Outdoor Kitchen

Been hankering for an open-air cooking area? Here, a guide to the ingredients it takes to make a five-star space. Incorporate as many as you like—and as your budget will allow — then save the rest for summers to come.



Add a Countertop


Ready to upgrade a basic barbecue? Start by creating a place to slice tomatoes and plate burgers. A peninsula of tumbled cast-concrete blocks and a stone counter turns a freestanding grill into a built-in. DIY a setup for about $350 by stacking blocks on a bed of tamped drainage stone, securing each block with masonry glue. Incorporate blocks of varying sizes and recessed "panels" to make the unit look less monolithic, then top it off with bluestone stair treads for the counter.



Money-saving option:
Forgo a built-in and pull up a small table.

Light It Up




There's nothing worse than fumbling in the dark when it's time to see if the chicken's done. Task lighting takes care of that problem and can range from a basic miner's hat to the graceful gooseneck fixture. Keep in mind that running an electrical line will cost a minimum of around $400 to $600, but it offers the option of outlets for conveniences like a side burner or a blender.



Money-saving option:
An adjustable, battery-operated clip-on lamp.

Install a Sink and Appliances

When an outdoor kitchen is more than a few steps from the house, it may pay to install cold-water and waste lines for a sink, as well as a small fridge for cool drinks. Adding a hot-water line, too, and a dishwasher can make cleanup that much easier. Count on plumbing costs to start around $1,500 (even more if you're adding hot water). Outdoor-rated under the counter fridges start around $1,000, rust-resistant stainless-steel dishwashers at $750.



Money-saving option:
Look for a sink that hooks up to a garden hose and drains into the ground, Chill drinks in a tub elevated on an iron stand.

Provide Shelter



Too much sun? A pergola may be the answer. Made with treated lumber or PVC, a slatted structure can cost about $40 to $200 per square foot and can be tied into the house framing or secured to freestanding posts. For more protection from sun and rain, add a plexiglass or metal roof.



Money-saving option:


A market umbrella, such as Home Decorator's 11-foot version, which comes with a stand, can provide overhead shelter

Add a Hearth



The ultimate outdoor-kitchen accessory—a fireplace­—comes at a price. It can cost from $10,000 for a basic block structure with a stucco finish to $25,000 and more for one made with stone.





Money-saving option:


A portable fire pit
Use Tough Surfaces


Use a granite surface dining table no need to seal it. Stone is made to weather,

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10 Ways to Add Privacy to Your Yard #1 & 2

When You Want to Be Alone


There was a time you could kick back in glorious solitude right in your own backyard. Then the family next door cleared some trees on their lot. And on the other side, the neighbors’ new master suite includes a second-story deck with nice views—into your yard. Suddenly, you feel like you’re living in a fishbowl.


As larger houses occupy ever-smaller lots and the demand for outdoor living areas grows, privacy is at a premium. And it’s not just about prying eyes invading your space—you may want to shield your own view of your sunbathing neighbors and block out their chatter.


There are myriad ways to add privacy in the landscape, from putting in perimeter plantings to building fences, stone walls, or garden structures. Here, staggered wooden boards are stained in soft shades of black, yellow, green, and red. They create a one-of-a-kind privacy fence softened by shrubs in front and a feathery tree canopy overhead.

Privacy Plantings



Property-line plantings can provide year-round screening and are typically not restricted by municipal ordinances limiting their height. Where space is tight, as in a side yard, fast-growing columnar evergreens like Italian cypress and arborvitae or a sheared privet hedge can provide a simple solution for separating adjoining yards or blocking sight lines out a kitchen window.



To plant a new privet hedge, create a trench two feet wide and two feet deep, space individual shrubs about 12 inches apart, and bring soil up to the branching trunk. Water deeply and frequently the first year, using drip irrigation. To thrive, these deciduous shrubs require a temperate climate and a homeowner willing to wield sharp shears as often as needed.



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Grass Seed Germination: Getting the Best Results

Planting a new lawn involves holding your breath, hoping that grass seed germination goes well. There are several actions you can take to ensure that your grass seed germinates properly, giving you the thick, green lawn you hoped for when you started planting. Here are some pointers to help you get the best results.




Step One: Prepare the Soil



The key to successful lawn and garden maintenance is always to properly prepare the soil. Whether you are starting with bare ground, or are renovating an existing lawn, you can improve germination rates if you aerate the soil and top-dress it with compost. That will break up the soil, and introduce organic matter-both of which will make it easier for the roots to grow and establish.



Step Two: Select the Right Seed for the Location



You will often hear gardeners say "right plant, right place." You really will have better results if you select a grass species that will do well in the area you want to plant it. Some grass types are better adapted to sun, and others to shade. Some like dry, sandy soils, while others need a richer base.



Step Three: Plant at the Proper time for your Selected Grass



Some grasses are cool season, while others are warm season. You will have better grass seed germination if you plant at the appropriate time. Warm season grasses will grow most rapidly when planted in late April or early May. The soil is warm, but not overwhelmingly hot. Cool season grasses like rye and bluegrass do best when planted in the fall. Mid-September to Mid-October works well for these. The days are getting shorter, the soil is cooling and the nights are cool.



Step Four: Spread Grass Seed Evenly



Using either a drop spreader or a rotary spreader will help you achieve even coverage. Both types of spreaders will need to be calibrated for your personal use. The speed at which you walk and the setting of the spreader will determine how much seed is put down per a specific period of time, and where it goes. Your spreader should come with instructions for calibration.



Step Five: Maintain Adequate Moisture



Seeds contain within them baby plants. The plant embryos are alive, but they are metabolizing very, very slowly. When you expose the seeds to water, they begin to "wake up," in a sense. You need to maintain adequate and even moisture throughout the germination process in order to get even grass seed germination rates. One way to do this is to water lightly three or four times a day, always stopping before sundown. (You do not want fungal disease to take hold during germination.) You can also top-dress your seeding with compost or straw to help keep the seeds covered and moist. The germination time will vary depending upon the species of grass.



Step Six: Stay off the Grass



You really do need to stay off the grass until it has had a chance to establish. While that might not be directly related to germination success, it is directly related to establishment. If you don't allow the plants the time they need to establish, it doesn't matter how good the germination was! You need to stay off of warm season grasses for up to three months, if you grow them from seed, because they are not as easy to establish from seed. Cool season grasses are usually "good to go" after about a month. Follow these tips when you establish a new lawn, and you will have excellent grass seed germination results!


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Best Foundation Plants for Stellar Curb Appeal

Virginia Sweetspire

(Itea virginica)

Its dark green leaves turn yellow-orange, reddish-purple, and crimson in the fall. 'Henry's Garnet' has 6-inch-long spikes of fragrant white flowers and can grow up to 4 feet high and 6 feet wide.

Knockout Rose

(Rosa) 'Radrazz'


A compact shrub covered with red flowers from spring until frost. Can grow up to 4 feet high and wide.

Flowering Perennials: True Geranium



'Rozanne'


At the front of the border, these can provide spring-to-fall color, especially if you cluster varieties with an extended bloom time.

'Rozanne' is one of the longest-blooming varieties, with violet petals around a white center that continue all summer. Can grow to 18 inches high and 2 feet wide.

Catmint

(Nepeta racemosa) 'Walker's Low'




Tall spikes of tiny blue or purple flowers that are best clumped together for a punch of color. 'Walker's Low' has fragrant lavender-blue flowers on 24-inch-tall stems that can grow to 3 feet wide.

Tickseed

(Coreopsis) 'Zagreb'


Daisy-like yellow flowers open in early summer on tall stalks with fine, green foliage. C. verticillata 'Zagreb' has golden flower heads, while 'Grandiflora' is a darker yellow. Both can grow to 18 inches high and wide.

Salvia

(S. nemorosa) 'Ostfriesland'




Blooms with violet, pink, or white flowers and green leaves from summer to fall. 'Ostfriesland' is a smaller purple salvia, reaching 18 inches high and wide.

Shasta Daisy

(Leucanthemum x superbum) 'Becky'




These 4-inch-wide blooms of white petals with yellow centers appear from mid summer to early fall and need no staking, thanks to ridged stems. Can grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide.